Verlie Feeney
If you’re in the market to try to hide your curtain rod then you need a cornice board. But today I want to show you how to build a shower cornice that mimics the Eastlake Vintage Style. Not to mention hiding the shower curtain liner and rings on the rod.
Many times these are used to cover curtain rods and are used as a part of window treatments. But whichever term you choose to use, wooden cornices can quickly elevate a space. As part of my small guest bathroom makeover DIY project, I decided to build a simple shower cornice to compliment the space.
The tools and supplies you need to build a shower cornice will depend on the style you choose, but what is listed is merely what I chose to use in my design. All of these tools & supplies can be purchased at your local hardware store or Home Depot, but I’ve added Amazon links for your convenience. Step One – Measure Your Shower Space & Cut Your Board to Fit
For this step, you’ll need a Measuring Tape, Pencil, 1x6x12, and a Saw. This tutorial is based on the assumption your shower is a wall-to-wall box, typical of a builder-grade home. See How to DIY Dowel Curtain Rod Cheap for that full tutorial.
On the back of the two 1×6 pieces, I spaced the 1x2s apart and used my brad nailer to attach the braces evenly. Step Two – Cut Your Design Pieces Out & Add Grooves with Table Saw
For this step, you’ll need a Measuring Tape, Pencil, Carpenter’s Square, Miter & Table Saw, and 1x4x8 Common Pine Board. Because I’m designing my shower cornice after the Eastlake Washstand that will be the vanity, I took a lot of inspiration from the trim and decorative pieces on my DIY Wall Mounted Laundry Drying Rack.
Eastlake has ornate carvings, trim pieces that layer, and both square edges and rounded elements. On both my side pieces and center in lay boards I chose to cut a groove with my table saw by putting my blade down to 1/8″.
Once you’ve decided on a design, sand all of your pieces down to a smooth stainable finish. To make a more fluid rounded piece to match the Eastlake trim I used my orbital sander to sand my 45°. I used my orbital sander to round the 45° to mimic the Eastlake decorative trim.
I used my measuring tape and a pencil to make sure things were spaced apart evenly.
Working one piece at a time, apply the glue, put it in place, and secure it using a 1″ brad nail. The final design is sanded and installed, ready for wood filler.
Step Four – Fill In Brad Nail Holes with Wood Filler & Sand Again When all your pieces are secured with wood glue and brad nails go back in with a sustainable wood filler and fill in all of your brad nail holes. No wood filler is 100% stainable, so try to use it sparingly and only get it in places you can sand it down later when it dries. For this step, you’ll need Lint-Free Rags, 2″ Angled Brush, Gloves, and Stain Color of Choice.
Then go back through with your lint-free rag, cleaning up the excess, and getting rid of any brush strokes. For this step, you’ll need small Acrylic Paintbrushes, Paint, Paper, X-Acto Knife, and a Pencil.
Since my washstand that is going to become a vanity in this bathroom is Eastlake I chose to do rubbings with paper and a pencil of the engravings. After creating my stencils I chose where on the top of the cornice (face) I wanted each design.
For this step, you’ll need Polycrylic (or another protective topcoat) and a 2″ Angled Brush.
Because this is going to be hanging in a shower I felt the need to do 2 good full coats of water protection. Once it starts to dry you should not go back over it to correct any brush strokes, it’ll only make it worse. Use a fair amount on your brush at a time and quickly evenly spread it around.
Humidity and temperature will play a huge role in how fast this dries. This will smooth any roughness and help eliminate any obvious brush strokes or missed drips. For this step, you’ll need a Stud Finder, Level, 1x4s to act as side braces, 2″ Star Bit Wood Screws + Star Bit, or Drywall Anchors + Drill Bit Appropriately Sized, Impact Driver or Drill, and a second pair of hands to help you. Install sides with pocket screws, creating a cornice box. Use metal corner brackets to attach the shower cornice to the walls. Metal brackets with a scrap piece of wood to create the arms of the “box”.
Measure from your wall to your shower curtain rod to mark the spots you’ll want to install your cornice on both ends. Drill pilot holes in your side braces if you’ve gone this route.
You will need someone to hold the cornice in place while you mark the placement for your screws or to drill and install drywall anchors. Use a level to ensure your marks are not going to install the shower cornice wonky. Then use your level to ensure you’ve got it straight up and down before attaching the bottom screws. I just want to point out how perfectly the designs also match the tiling in this bathroom.
My arm muscles were screaming and honestly, this is not the best time to have to use drywall anchors. A cornice would look gorgeous as a back accent wall to a desk with or without curtains.
They’re typically built in a box form to mimic the style of crown molding, but they have evolved quite a bit over the year.
But I am creating a cornice that hopefully mimics the style of the Eastlake era with the decorative moldings and even faux carvings. The reason I chose to create a cornice was out of sheer curiosity if I’m honest. But I would not recommend you upholstering one that is going into a bathroom as the high humidity and water would likely cause mold!
To upholster a cornice you will need a few supplies like A large Piece of Fabric, a Staple Gun & Staples, a Hot Glue Gun & Glue Sticks, quilt batting, and Foam Board (Optional), and Wood to Create the Wood Frame. I hope I have given you some inspiration, ideas for creativity, and maybe a push to create your very own shower cornice.
